Old flat rooflight with fogging trapped between the panes

Misted and Failed Rooflight Replacement
in Swindon

Misted rooflight replacement in Swindon starts with a plain question: is it the glass that has failed, or the whole unit? We find out at a free survey, then put the answer in a written job plan with the size, the glass specification, the Building Control position and the fitting day, before you are asked to pay for anything.

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01A failed unit, misted between the panes

The job at a glance

Route
Glass only, or a whole new unit
Paperwork
Notified if the whole unit goes
Wait for glass
Fixed when ordered
Cover
Ten years on our fitting work

Three ways a rooflight fails

02What we are called to

  • Condensation trapped inside a sealed rooflight unit

    Fogged between the panes

    A flat rooflight or dome whose double-glazed unit has a cloudy film trapped inside it. The edge seal has let go, moist air has entered the gap, and no amount of cleaning outside or in will reach it.

  • Crack across the outer pane of a flat rooflight

    Cracked outer glass

    A line across the top pane, often running in from a corner or an edge. Thermal stress, a dropped branch or a fixing that has shifted can each start one. The pane has to come out as a unit, not be taped over.

  • Older roof window with cloudy fogged glass

    An older roof window gone cloudy

    A roof window from a couple of decades ago whose glazing no longer looks clear. The question is whether a new glazed sash will fit it or whether the whole window has reached the end of its useful life.

Flat rooflight with a new clear glazing unit
03A new clear unit fitted

What to settle before the order

  • Glass alone, or the whole unit?

    If the frame and kerb are sound and the maker's size is still made, a new sealed unit may be all the job needs. If the frame is worn, we say so, and the plan prices a whole new rooflight instead.

  • What is the exact size?

    A replacement unit is made to measure, to the millimetre. We take the size from the frame and the old unit together, and record both figures, so whoever orders and whoever fits are working from one set of numbers.

  • Which glass goes in?

    The new unit should match or better the one it replaces: toughened outside, a laminated inner pane where the room below is lived in, and a coating if the old one had it. The plan spells out each layer of the new unit.

The order of work

04The order of work

  1. Look, measure, write it down

    We call round, read the data plate, take the sizes and put the plan on paper: which route, the measurements, the glass specification and who signs the work off.

  2. Glass cut to size

    The new glazing is ordered to the sizes we checked. Cut-to-size glass takes a while to arrive, so the wait and your fitting date are fixed together.

  3. Out with the old unit

    Out comes the failed unit and in goes the new one, bedded into the frame and checked from the room and from the roof, with the opening closed before we leave.

  4. Certified and covered

    If the whole rooflight has gone in, Building Control is notified and inspects. Either way you hold our ten-year workmanship guarantee on paper.

One job, followed through

Misted rooflight replacement, stage by stage

Follow one job through: a 1980s brick house in Covingham, its kitchen extension capped with a flat roof, and a rooflight that has slowly turned grey and cloudy. Seven stages carry it from the first look at the glass to the signed-off finish. Each one shows what we examine, what goes onto the plan and the day the work falls on.

Stage 01 · The symptom

A grey film inside a sealed unit

The kitchen in this diary has had its rooflight for as long as the owners have lived there. For a couple of winters they noticed a haze on the glass first thing in the morning, which cleared by lunchtime. Now it stays. A pale, patchy film sits inside the unit, and on a bright day it shows as a milky blotch against the sky. They have cleaned the outside, and then the inside, and neither made the slightest difference. That is the usual first sign of a failed sealed unit.

A sealed unit is two panes of glass held a fixed distance apart by a spacer bar around the edge, with a thin seal bonding the glass to it. The gap between the panes is filled with dry air or an inert gas, and the spacer contains a desiccant that soaks up any trace of moisture. While the edge seal holds, the gap stays dry and clear for years. Once the seal opens, even slightly, damp air enters and the desiccant is overwhelmed.

From then on the moisture condenses on the cooler inner face of the outer pane whenever the temperature drops, and evaporates again when it warms, which is why the haze comes and goes before it becomes permanent. Mineral deposits are left behind as the water dries, and those are what stay as the film. The unit cannot be dried out or cleaned from outside. Our guide to why rooflight glass mists between the panes explains the mechanism in more detail.

The owners ask a sensible question at this stage: is the rooflight leaking? Misting between the panes is a different thing from rain coming in. The glass has failed as an insulator and as a clear window, but the roof around it is a separate matter that the survey will look at on its own. Either way, the next step is the same. Someone comes, looks at the unit properly and writes down what has to be done.

Cleaning cannot reach a film that sits inside the sealed unit.

Where the misting sits, and what that tells you
What you seeWhere it isWhat it means
Wipes away from the room sideInner face of the inner paneRoom condensation, not a failed unit
Wipes away from outsideOuter face of the outer paneDirt or dew outside
Will not wipe from either sideBetween the panesFailed edge seal, unit to be replaced
Comes and goes with the temperatureBetween the panesSeal already open, getting worse

Stage 02 · The survey

Reading the data plate and measuring the unit

The survey begins at the rooflight and at the roof around it. We read any maker's mark on the frame or the edge of the glass. A flat rooflight often carries a small label with a product name and a date, and the date tells us how old the unit is and whether the maker still supplies parts. A roof window has a data plate on the sash with a size code and a year. Those details settle whether a matching part exists or has to be made.

Next we measure. A new sealed unit is made to the millimetre, so the figure has to be right the first time. We take the width and the length of the old unit, the overall thickness, and the size of the frame opening that holds it. We check that the frame is square, because an out-of-square frame changes the clearances the new unit needs. The thickness matters as well. Modern units can be a little thicker, and the frame rebate has to take it.

Then we look at what the unit sits in. The frame may be aluminium, timber or plastic, and the glazing seals or gaskets, the drainage channels at the base and the upstand it stands on all affect the decision. In the Covingham kitchen the aluminium frame is sound and the kerb is dry. That is good news, because it points to a glass-only job. Not every survey ends that way, and we say so plainly when it does not.

While we are on the roof we note the access: how the new unit will get up, where the scaffold or tower would stand, and whether anyone has to carry glass over a neighbour's boundary. A large unit is heavy, and a made-to-measure pane cannot be cut down on site. All of it goes into the file, along with photographs of the old unit and its labels, and the file becomes the job plan.

What gets written down on the roof

  • Maker's mark, product name and date
  • Width, length and thickness of the old unit
  • Frame material, squareness and condition
  • Glazing seals, drainage and upstand
  • Access for lifting the new unit
  • Photographs of the unit and its labels

Stage 03 · The decision

New glass in the old frame, or a whole new unit?

This is the decision that shapes everything after it, so the job plan records it as its own line. Option one is fresh glazing dropped into the existing frame. Nothing else on the roof is disturbed: the frame, its kerb and the covering all stay, and only the glazing changes. Option two is a whole new rooflight, frame and glass together, set on the kerb in place of the old one. Each suits a different set of circumstances, and we set out the reasons for the choice in writing.

Swapping only the glazing makes sense where the frame is sound, the seals around it are in good order, the unit is a standard type that is still made, and the thermal performance of the old frame is acceptable. It is quicker, it disturbs less of the roof, and the lead time is that of the glass alone. Our guide to new glass or a whole new unit works through the factors in order, with the questions to ask at each point.

A whole unit makes sense where the frame is worn, bent or corroded, where the product has been discontinued and a matching unit cannot be found, or where the old rooflight was never very good at holding heat. A new rooflight is a chance to meet today's limits for rooflights rather than those of the year it was installed. It costs more on the day and lasts longer, and the plan weighs the two against each other before you decide.

There is a regulatory difference, too. A new sealed glazing unit on its own is not notifiable. Frame and glass together make a controlled fitting, which is notifiable, and the new rooflight then has to reach the limits current for an existing dwelling. In the Covingham kitchen the frame is sound, the unit is a standard type and the owners prefer the smaller job. So the plan says glass only, and gives the reason in a line.

The reason for the choice goes on the plan beside the choice.

Fresh glazing only

  • Frame and kerb stay in place
  • Suits a sound, standard frame
  • Shorter lead time, smaller job
  • Not notifiable to Building Control

Whole new rooflight

  • Frame and glass replaced together
  • Suits a worn or discontinued frame
  • Meets today's limits for existing homes
  • Notifiable, sign-off in writing

Clear glass again, and the reason written down.

The verdict

Stage 04 · The glass

Specifying the new glass to match or better the old

Whichever route is chosen, the new glass is specified in writing. A replacement should do at least what the original did, so the survey notes the build-up of the old unit where it can be read: the thickness of each pane, the width of the gap between them and whether there is a coating. Where a label survives, we use it. Where it does not, the supplier can often identify the glazing from its edge and measurements, and we confirm that before the order goes in.

For a flat rooflight or dome the outer pane is normally toughened, which means it breaks into small blunt pieces rather than long shards. The inner pane is the one over the room, and we recommend it is laminated: two layers of glass bonded to a clear interlayer, which hold together if it cracks. Part K of the Building Regulations does not ask for laminated glass in a dwelling roof, which makes it our advice rather than a rule. Whichever glass is chosen, it is named on the plan.

Thermal performance depends on more than the number of panes. A low-emissivity coating on one surface of the gap cuts the heat that passes through, a warm-edge spacer reduces the cold line around the perimeter, and a gas fill in the gap improves things further. The sealed unit is where those details live. A new unit typically performs better than one made a couple of decades ago, and our page on energy efficient rooflights sets out the figures behind that.

Solar control is the last option. If the extension faces south and the table sits right under the glass, a tinted or coated outer pane reduces the heat and glare that build up. If the old unit had it, the new one should too. If it did not, and the owners have found the room uncomfortably bright in summer, this is the moment to add it. The coating is part of the sealed unit, so there is no extra visit and no change to the frame.

The build-up written on a replacement unit order
Part of the unitWhat the plan statesWhy it is named
Outer paneToughened, thickness givenHandling and impact
Gap and gas fillWidth in millimetres, fill typeHeat loss through the unit
Inner paneLaminated where over a roomHolds together if cracked
CoatingsLow-emissivity, solar control if wantedComfort and glare
SpacerWarm-edge typeCold edge and condensation

Stage 05 · The paperwork

When Building Control applies, and when it does not

The paperwork follows from the decision. Putting a new sealed glazing unit into the existing frame is not a notifiable job, because the frame and its fixing are not being touched. We still write the glazing specification into the job plan so there is a record of what went in, and you can show it to a surveyor if you sell the house. No application is needed and no Building Control inspection is booked for a glass-only replacement.

Fitting a wholly new rooflight or roof window is another matter. It counts as a controlled fitting, so the job is notifiable and the unit you fit needs to reach the current limits for existing dwellings. The thermal limits sit in Part L 2021. A roof window must reach the figure for windows generally, and a rooflight has its own, higher figure. We read both against the maker's declared numbers for the unit before ordering. We check the maker's declared figures for the unit before the order goes in.

The Building Control body may be the council itself, or a private firm registered as a building control approver. For a notifiable job the notification is ours to make, with the specification and the declared figures attached, and we book whatever inspection the approver wants. At the end, the completion certificate comes to you, and you keep it with the other papers for the house. Every detail is on the job plan, so there is no surprise waiting later.

Planning permission is a separate question again. A like-for-like replacement of a rooflight that is already in the roof normally raises no new planning question, because nothing is being added. But if the new unit is a different size or stands up higher, the position can change, and so can it for a flat or a listed building. We look up the position for the house and report what turns up. The council decides. For the rules in full, read our guide to planning permission for rooflights.

Glass only is not notifiable. A whole new unit is.

Points we look up for your house

  • Glass only, or whole unit, and so notifiable or not
  • Declared performance of the new unit
  • Whether the size or height of the opening changes
  • Conservation area, or an Article 4 direction
  • Whether the house is listed
  • Building Control route and approver

Stage 06 · The order

Made to measure, and the wait that follows

Standard-size units are sometimes available from stock. Most replacement units for older rooflights are not standard. They are cut and sealed for the individual opening, which means the order cannot be placed until the size is certain, and the glass takes a while to arrive once it is. The survey fixes the size, the plan states it, and the order follows once you have agreed the plan. The lead time is confirmed at that point, not guessed in advance.

That waiting period is when the old unit goes on doing its job as best it can. It is misted, but it is still keeping the rain out and still closing the opening. If a pane has cracked, the picture changes: we say what can be done to cover the opening until the new glass arrives, and the guide to cracked rooflight glass and replacement options describes it factually, including why a cracked pane should not be walked on or leaned against.

A roof window is a slightly different order. For these, the maker's size code on the data plate identifies the window, and the letters and digits in it give the width and the height. A VELUX sash with a failed pane can often be replaced by a new sash of the same code. Our answer on replacing just the glass in a VELUX covers when that works and when a whole new window is the better choice.

A lantern is different again. A roof lantern is built from several glazed panels, and one may fail while the rest stay clear. The glazing bars, the caps and the colour all have to be matched, and the outer tint has to agree with the neighbouring panels. Our answer on replacing one glass panel in a roof lantern explains how that works, and when several failed panels point instead to a new lantern.

What shapes the quote for new glazing

SizeMore glass, more weight, a bigger lift
Glass build-upLaminated pane, coatings and gas fill
Made to measureLead time and a cut-to-size unit
AccessScaffold, a tower or a crane for large panes
Matching the originalA tint, a bar layout or a colour to match
Glass only or whole unitA new frame, kerb work and notification

Factors only. A figure appears on the written quote after the survey.

Glazed panel being lifted into a roof lantern frame
06A new panel going into a lantern

Stage 07 · The day itself

Swap day, and clear glass over the kitchen

The new unit arrives before fitting day, and we check it against the plan as soon as it is delivered. We look at the size, the thickness and the glass type, and we inspect the edges and corners for damage in transit. If anything is wrong it is found then, with the date still in the future. Nobody discovers on the roof that a pane is a few millimetres short, or that the coating is on the wrong surface.

On the day, sheets go down over the floor and furniture and the work begins from the roof. The old glazing bars or beads come off, the failed unit is lifted out, and the rebate and the seals are cleaned and checked. The new unit is set on its packers, positioned so it sits evenly, and held with new beads and gaskets or a fresh bed of sealant, depending on the frame. It is checked from the room and from the roof, so the gap is even all the way round.

A whole new rooflight takes longer, but it follows the same order. The old frame is removed from its kerb, the kerb is checked and the covering dressed to meet the new unit, and the frame is set, fixed and sealed before the glass goes in. We do not leave the opening exposed overnight. If rain is forecast, the date moves before we start instead of halfway through, and the roof is shut again by the time we pack up.

Sign-off is the last page. On a glass-only job you get the written specification of what was fitted and the 10-year workmanship guarantee on our work. On a whole-unit job the Building Control approver inspects, and the completion certificate follows. For the other glass questions, whether a misted rooflight is covered by guarantee explains the difference between the maker's glass warranty and ours. For everything else we do, start at our skylight and rooflight services.

The new unit is checked on delivery, not on the roof.

Fitter lifting a roof window into an opening from inside
07The window going in

Misted rooflight questions

Why has my rooflight gone cloudy between the panes?

The sealed unit has lost its edge seal. Air carrying moisture has entered the gap between the two panes, the drying agent in the spacer has been used up, and the damp now condenses on the cool glass and leaves a film. It cannot be cleaned from the room or from the roof. The only cure is a new sealed unit, or a new rooflight if the frame is past its best. At the survey we say which, in writing.

Can you fit new glass without replacing the whole rooflight?

Often, yes. If the frame is square and sound, the seals around the glass are in good order and the old unit is a size and type that can still be made, fresh glazing can go into the existing frame. That keeps the job smaller and the lead time shorter. If the frame is worn, or the product has been withdrawn, we recommend a whole new unit instead and set out the reasons on the job plan. The choice is yours.

Does swapping the glass need Building Control?

Not when only the sealed glazing unit is replaced in an existing frame, because it is not notifiable. Take out the entire rooflight or roof window and fit a new one, and Building Control must be told, since the new unit has to meet the limits for existing homes. Where that applies the notification is ours to handle, whether the body is the council or an approver. The job plan says which route your job takes.

How long does a new glass unit take to arrive?

It depends on the size and the build-up. A unit made to measure takes longer than one from stock, and a laminated inner pane or a coating can add to the wait. We do not guess: the lead time is confirmed when the unit is ordered, and your fitting day is agreed at the same time. The old rooflight stays in place until then, and the plan tells you what to do if anything about it changes.

Is a misted rooflight dangerous?

A misted sealed unit is a failure of the seal, not of the glass itself, so the pane is still strong. What you lose is clarity and some of the thermal performance. A cracked pane is a different matter, since the glass may be weakened, and it should be left alone and replaced. Whichever you have, do not lean on or walk across the unit. Tell us what you can see, and the survey will confirm the cause.

What does your guarantee cover on a glass replacement?

The 10-year workmanship guarantee covers our own work: the removal of the old unit, the fitting and sealing of the new one in its frame, and anything we do to the kerb or covering around it. It is handed over in writing when the job is signed off. The glass itself comes with the maker's own warranty, which we pass on with the invoice and the specification so the job file stays in one place.

Put your glass replacement on paper

Describe what you can see: the cloudy film, the crack, roughly how old the unit is. A free survey comes first, and the written quote that follows carries the job plan with it, covering the route, the size, the glass and the day we fit.

09Get in touch

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